E Contrario

Went with Beth Yaph to Melaka last weekend (20 Oct). On our journey to Melaka, decided to stop by Linggi. I haven’t been to Linggi for a very long time. My last visit was probably 1999 or 2000. My visit was probably connected to Teluk Kemang by-election.

If I remember correctly, I must have come to Linggi for a ceramah at night. I arrived in the late afternoon. I had some free time so I decided to explore the adjacent area around Linggi town and Pengkalan Kempas. By accident, I bumped into the megalith ruin of Linggi. My impression was awesome as I encountered the site without really knew what it was. The atmosphere was strange, enigmatic, and even creepy. The ruin resembled Stonehenge (right picture). I was totally absorbed by the mysterious ambience surrounding the stone and their peculiar carving. The ancient megalithic stones were used as tomb stones of a holy Islamic teacher said to be Sheikh Ahmad Majnun. There were also incense and yellow candles on the tomb indicating that the site was revered to be consecrated (Keramat).

Among the megaliths, the most interesting and baffling were three menhirs (long standing stones), in the shape of a Rudder, Sword and Spoon. They are carved with various motifs of strange creatures.
I could not clearly recall the actual alignment of stones then. I always had an impression that the stones were in a formation that encircling the grave of the Sheikh. I also saw somewhere on the notice board that the actual megaliths had been preserved in the National Museum and the stones on the site were replicas.

In 1990s, the replicas of Linggi ‘Stonehenge’ were erected on the lawn outside the old Railway Station. I used to see them when I drove past. I am not sure why they are now removed, and when they were moved.

Our encounter of the ruin this time was a total let down. To my astonishment, the entire place was done up. The surrounding environment all cleared up, fences were added and bitumen road leading all the way to the tomb. A huge roof has been built and the tomb is now largely covered. I even suspect the stones formation has been changed. The site lost its mystery, as well as its sanctity. It now looked like a display of modern museum.

I appreciate the need for preservation of ancient artifacts; presumably the construction was done by Museum Department. However preservation work should as much as possible retain the originality. It is also important that the setting should reflect the knowledge inherited by the local people. It is a complicated task, but the intricacy and obscurity of this unknown antique culture have been passed on for generations. Human and mysterious location always exist a special bond. It might be tacitly known and embodied in the rituals of worship. All these should not be simply brushed off by modern convenience.

It is interesting that these megaliths are called ‘batu berjalan’ or ‘batu hidup’ by Malays. They are mysterious living stones. A ‘batu berjalan’ is believed to be possessing magical power to move by itself, amidst very gradually.

The megaliths have endured more than a thousand year of weathering, they carry the secrets of ancient time. I am quite sure that the future generations will continue to be puzzled by the carved stones. We may never know their secrets but we must keep the stones alive.

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